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IN MEMORY OF ANDY IRONS

REFLECTIONS OF A SURFER THE GAME THAT WAS TO MEET WITH GOD.

I was once asked: What does it mean for you to surf at this stage of your life? And after thinking a few seconds ... for me ... I said, "It's one of the many faces of God, then ask the same person or should I say rebuke: teda not afraid? ... Uumm ... - And why should I fear God? - After that I left ... now ratified the same answer again! Eric

Today, with these words which I try to define it for my surfing, I pay tribute to one of the world's best surfers Andy Irons. In my reflection, internal feelings that move me the world of surfing, its events and contradictions with social conventions ... I is clear, that for me is always an irony: the bonds and cliches that others are trying to download, though these are underlying ... Freedom is love and God is Love! Perhaps my only tie, is the tensor I joined my board and probably a love can contemplate with humility and respect one of the many faces of God ... Surf!

is complex for some people to understand why surfing becomes part of your life, rather than a part in your lifestyle. I think the answer is no recognition from your peers and friends or in the vanity that fuels your ego to run a Wave ... The answer is precisely in this encounter with God ... When you're alone in the water caressing waves as lines on a Table ... In this form of simple life and magic that makes you feel ALIVE! That makes you feel that you encounter with God!

once read, somewhere, that the best surfer in the world "is one that always runs the Waves with a smile on his face" ; Recently we were one of the world's best surfers Andy Irons, one of those special people who always Waves are present with a smile to the world! Andy Irons, left behind him his parents, his brother Bruce Irons, and his partner and love Lindy who is pregnant.

IN MEMORY OF ANDY IRONS (AI), who in life was winning three world titles, will this small tribute. I leave you with this excellent video in his honor at the same time contains in itself a response to questions from those who do not understand why the SURFING BECOMES OUR WAY OF LIFE!

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ALOHA! YOU ANDY IRONS